Camping Chronicles: Savuti – The Legendary Lions
Camping Chronicles: Savuti and the Legendary Lions Adventure
In this article:
So, our trusty little camping trailer is named Savuti, and we thought it was only fair to take it to its namesake. We kicked off our day with a 07:30 breakfast at Mwandi View, where we got some insider tips from one of the owners on the best route to Savuti. Apparently, relying solely on the GPS could lead us on a wild goose chase or down a road that even Indiana Jones would avoid. Spoiler alert: the road was just as sandy and bumpy as the one from Ihaha, once the tar ended 20km from Mwandi View. Yay for consistency!

The journey to Savuti is like a game of “Spot the Elephant” with warning signs everywhere. About 10km in, we found ourselves bellied out in a sandy two-spoor (stuck). Cue the Botswana Parks officials (a story for another time), who swooped in to save the day with the sage advice: “Turn off the aircon and just gun it.” Surprisingly, this worked until it didn’t, but that’s a story for another day.
Check-in
By 1 PM, we rolled up to the Ghoha gate of Chobe, exhausted but relieved. The last few kilometers to Savuti camp were a breeze, and we were dreaming of a cold one. Check-in was a breeze, and the reception pointed us to the campsite and the legendary tuck shop.
Tuckshop
Now, about that tuck shop. Picture a shipping container with a modest selection of essentials. Need deodorant, soap, or toothpaste? You’re in luck. Shampoo? Not so much. Snacks? They’ve got you covered with crisps, biscuits, and cookies. And if you forgot your booze, they’ve got the basics like Old Brown Sherry, some decent wines, Klipdrift, Savannah, and Windhoek draught.
Campsite
The campsite, perched by the river, offers a stunning view, though the channel was dry due to the drought. We almost got stuck again in our own camp but managed to manoeuvre the trailer into place and finished setting up. Lunch was a gourmet affair of cold leftover rump and saved garlic fried rice from two nights ago (you know, the ones the honeybadger didn’t get). Yum!

The campsites are spacious, with plenty of shade from big trees. Each site comes with a monkey-proof dustbin, running water, a braai stand, and a firepit. We used the firepit for everything from pizza to Dutch oven lasagna. The braai stand? Although a very good braai, for us it was perfect for balancing jerrycans while filling up the car.
Sleeping under the stars was peaceful, with nature’s soundtrack all around. A full moon would have been nice, but we made do with total darkness. Nighttime visitors included kudu, impala, and a honey badger raiding our trash. Lesson learned from Ihaha, I got up and locked up the crates in the car!
Every morning brought the excitement of identifying spoor for the previous night’s visitors. We had kudu, impala, and even leopard prints (the last morning) through our camp all the way to the ablution block, about 50m away. We were advised during check-in to never let the kids make this trip alone and to opt for driving after dark.
Ablutions
The ablution block is fortified to keep out wildlife. It’s like showering in a mini fortress, complete with thick concrete walls and strong doors to ensure you don’t have to share your shower with a leopard, lion, or elephant. There’s also a dishwashing area at the back, where I’d wash dishes, and let them air dry, while I shower.
The ablutions themselves are kept spotless, with solar-heated water and flush toilets. Lighting, also provided by solar, becomes dimmer as the night progresses, so plan your late-night showers accordingly.
Activities
Savuti is famous for its wildlife, especially the lions. A Chobe map is a good investment for spotting game. You don’t have to go far to see elephants, giraffes, wildebeests, waterbuck, and impala. And let’s not forget the stars of the show – the Savuti lions. These big cats are practically the welcoming committee, often lounging near the waterhole just 700m from the camp gate. It’s like they’re saying, “Welcome to Savuti, we’ll be your tour guides today. Please keep your hands and feet inside the vehicle at all times.”

Fuel Matters
Pro tip: don’t miscalculate your fuel needs. We did, thanks to driving in 4 Low from where the tar ends to Savuti, which guzzled our fuel like a thirsty elephant at a waterhole. We had to rely on Patrick in Khwai to bail us out. We sent a desperate SMS via our Garmin InReach, and he replied saying he’d help us out. Patrick’s the go-to guy for fuel, though it costs double. Worth it if you’re in a pinch!
Conclusion
All good things must come to an end, and so did our time at Savuti. We packed up and headed to Xakanaxa, Moremi. But not before having an unplanned and unexpected night at the beautiful Mbudi, Khwai. Savuti is beautiful, and we’ll be back when the channel is flowing. Until then, happy camping!
Hope you enjoyed this humorous take on your Savuti adventure! If you have any questions or comments, feel free to share them in the forum.
2 Comments
Comments are closed.